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Body Texture

As I essentially have to create a cracked statue effect all over any exposed skin, I will be creating flatpieces to give a 3D realistic effect. 

I have thought about varying methods to create the texture, such as painting it on, or glueing sand to the body, but I believe for film context that prosthetcs would be used and are the most effective method.

Within this decision there are also choices to be made, such as whether to pre-paint, to make the pieces as bondo 3D transfers... etc. 

This is my research into the possibilities;

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Prouty S. 2011 A Bondo Trick You'll Flip For. Makeup Artist Magazine, Issue number 79

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uknown. 2012 3D Transfers. Makeup Artist Magazine Issue Number 82

Drax the Destroyer. (2014) [online image] Available from:http://www.guardiansofthegalaxygames.com/drax-the-destroyer/ [Accessed: November 11th 2014]

 

Silcione flat pieces were used to create Drax's makeup for Gaurdians of the Galaxy. The makeup artist mentioned that bondo flatpieces would have worked as effectivley, but the removal time everyday would've been a much more lengthly and more painful process.

Notes:

- Create sculpture as a flatpiece

- Create a small wall of clay around the piece, close to the edge

- Then create a box around the piece out of clay or foam core strips (whatever works) 

- Fill with a silicone of your choice (GI-1000 or V-1065 would work) 

- Pull mould off and clean up

- Some people thicken the Pros-Aide with cab-o-sil, but its best to beat the water out of it

I also thought about the possibility of experimenting with just painting the body with acrylic paint, as when it dried I thought it might start to flake off. However, this would reveal skin underneath and I don't want the cracked off areas to look like skin, but stone. I guess I could paint a base layer underneath in the correct colour which might work. 

 

The other issue is that the paint would keep flaking throughout the entire day, unless I could crack it to the amount I wanted it to crack off and then paint pros-aide to stop the rest from cracking off. I think the easier option is to just paint the cracks onto the skin with PAX paint. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other ways to Body Paint:

 

I found an online forum discussing different materials and techniques to create long lasting bodypaint.  

 

Makeup Fx Forum. Best Paint for Bodypainting. (2014) [online] Available from: http://www.make-up-fx-forum.com/index.php/topic,1757.0.html [Accessed: May 4th 2015]

 

 

Guru Makeup Emporium 2010. [online] Available from: http://www.gurumakeupemporium.com/epages/BT4080.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4080/Products/13/SubProducts/13-0001 [Accessed: May 6th 2015]

I found this resonse very helpful. I know I don't want to use skin illustrator or any kind of alcohol based paints for my work because they give a very translucent effect. I would have to layer them up so much that it would take hours to achieve the opaque looks I want. Aqua colours don't have the staying power I require for the body paint. I can't have the paint rubbing off on the costumes at all and because its for film purposes, it has to last as well as it can for a day of filming. 

 

As silicone-based paints are sweat proof, this could be an option for me, as then I could also airbrush my model, which I couldn't do with PAX paint. This comment also says that it is easier to remove which would be helpful, and I imagine, less painful for my model. 

Airbase Makeup n.d. [online] Available from: http://www.airbasemakeup.com/about/about-airbase-and-airbrushing [Accessed: May 6th 2015]

Further Research into PAX Paint

Wikia. n.d. [online] Available from: http://fx.wikia.com/wiki/PAX [Accessed: May 6th 2015]

Silicone airbrushing sounds like a good alternative to PAX, as it's heat resistant (sweat-proof), non-stick (PAX would be very sticky) and plyable. My main concern with it would be creating the dense opaqueness that i'd need to create. Because I can mix my own PAX, I can create it to be incredibly dense and to the exact colour I want, and I like having that control over the paint. I also think that because the PAX im painting on doesn't have to be very neat ( due to the rough statue texture) that hand painting it on shouldn't be too much of a time consuming process, so i'm not sure airbrushing would save me too much time.

I wasn't aware you could get water-based makeup with alcohol. I imagine this would have longer staying power, as alcohol based paints have much better staying power than water-based paints. 

Cracking Up. 2011. Makeup Artist Magazine. Issue 57, page 34

I found the interesting technique in this article to be really relevant in terms of creating the texture that I want for my statue makeup. As its an old statue with cracked areas, this technique could be really effective if used in the right areas to create texture. I think used all over would be too much and would probably be really uncomfortable for the actor. Maybe used on larger flatter areas, such as the arms and legs in maybe 10cm by 10cm sections or something and then daubed roughly over other areas to create a cohesive effect.

 

Notes:  

- apply thin layer of prostehtic adhesive to the area which requires the effect

- while adhesive is drying, mix alginate in a small container. The best alginate for this is white cure quick set alginate for a neutral canvas. You don't want the alginate to be too strong

- make sure the alginate has a creamy consistency. Using a tongue depresser, spread an even amount of the alginate over the adhesive. We are looking for an eighth-inch layer here

- Then begin drying out the alginate with a hairdryer on a low heat

- after 2-3 minutes the moisture will begin to evaporate. Using your thumb and index finger, stretch and massage the area

- at about the 4 minute mark the cracks should widening, continue drying for about 1 more minute

- at this point, powder can be added which will attatch to the adhesive under the alginate

- add fixing spray

- If your alginate requires a specific colour, apply PAX paint.

Key Notes: 

- PAX doesn't deteriorate latex

- is diificult to use in high detail airbrush work

- PAX is ineffecive for painting appliances made from silicone. The non-stick nature of silicone prevents PAX from adhering. 

- PAX can be airbrushed if its thinned with distilled water

 

This is a very useful article. However, I don't understand why you wouldn't be able to paint silicone with PAX. If PAX is 50% pros-aide and pros-aide is used to glue silicone appliances I don't see how the PAX wouldn't stick to the silicone.

Notes:

- Take your silicone flat mould and release it with powder

- spray 2-3 coats of cap plastic mixed with acetone in a 2/4 parts thinner to 1 ratio. 

- if the detail in the mould is deeper than 2cm then do a few thin layers of bondo in these deeper sections of the mould

- then heap on the bondo (which you can pre-tint with acrylic paint) and smooth if off to get as flat an edge as possible

- place in front of a fan until it dries to wick out the water

- (depending on the depth of your mould you may need to add more layers until you reach the surface)

- when dry, paint on a ring of pros-aide around the outer eight-inch edge of the mould and dry with a hairdryer. 

- using thick card, make an outline that will be about 2cm thick inward from the circumference of the mould. Carefully press this card onto the dried adhesive

- Then peel the card and prosthetic away from the mould. - staple some parchments-wax paper to the back of the frame which will keep the sticky, un-encapsulated back of the pieces clean and protected. 

Test:

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Debrecini, T. (2013) Special Makeup Effects. Oxon: Focal Press

3D transfers are looking to be the most effective way for me to create large scale skin texture for film context.

 

However, I simply don't understand the need for freezing the piece and using acetate paper etc. When we made them in class we just spread on the piece, put it in a de-hydrating machine and then it was ready to apply to the skin. The other steps seem very unecessary to me.

Notes:

 

- Use vaseline as a release on the acetate before pressing it against the bondo

- smooth down the acetate so it has good contact with all of the bondo (can use scraping too again over the acetate_

- put in the freezer for roughly an hour and then remove from the mould gently and slowly

- once removed, leave to de-frost

- can blend away and big pieces or edges with IPA so theyll be thin once piece is on transfer paper

- sponge on thin layer of pros-aide all over transfer and leave to dry

- apply piece down to the shiny side of teh water activated transfer paper

- peel off the acetate

- left with trasfer ready

 

Seeing this visually really helped me understand the process more rather than just reading about it. I can see why this method would be useful if you needed multiple copies of a piece, but otherwise I don't see why you wouldnt just leave the piece in the mould and dehydrate it. That way you also have less chance of messin up the edges with the acetate and transfer paper.

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Louise Warren 2013 Making a 3D Bondo Transfer. [online] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNByh8-b8gU [Accessed May 9th 2015]

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Applied layer of pros-aide

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mixed and applied quite a think layer of alginate over dried pros-aide

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I then hair dried this for about 5 minutes, stretching it to produce cracks.

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It tore more on areas of significant movement. It pulled more on these areas, which I could see becoming uncomfortable after long periods of time.

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I painted the exposed area and over the alginate with PAX paint. I hairdryed this and then stippled over a layer of pros-aide to act as a sealer to prevent the alginate from flaking off.

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Some thicker areas lifted up a bit, but still felt very securely held on by the rest of the piece.

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I think a slightly thinner coating of alginate would work more effectively for the effect i'm trying to create , as the thinner areas on this test look less bulky, more like flaking paint.

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I did try just painting on straight acrylic paint and it hardly flaking at all. Untill I rubbed it quite roughly with my hands, it didnt flake off at all.

The effect when it did flake off though was a really effective paint-flaking look. 

I don't know how it's create a rought paint texture under this - maybe by painting it first with no-tack prosaide and acrylic paint, and then painting over it with just acrylic paint. But then the pros-aide might stop it flaking off all together.

 

I think i'd have to experiment further with these two techniques to achieve the correct texture for my piece.

Examples of PAX paint makeups

I think another option could be to explore the possibilities of using fullers earth. I know it flakes off pretty easily, but maybe putting down as adhesive base beforehand and sealing it afterwards would stop it from cracking all othe way off.

The makeup for Mrs. Doubtfire took 270 minutes to apply each day by Ve Neill. The multi-mask piece was designed in multiple pieces by Dick Smith and Greg Cannom to allow for more facial movement.  I assume because of the lack of translucency that it must be PAX paint. Also foam latex is typically painted with PAX paint.

 

 

"

4. “Mrs Doubtfire” – Ve Neill

I think probably the film that I’m most proud of would be the transformation of Robin Williams into Mrs. Doubtfire. For those of you who haven’t seen “Mrs. Doubtfire,” it is a man passing himself off as an old woman. Robin wore 13 overlapping foam latex appliances, as well as a fat suit, as well as a wig. The first time we did it, it took about four hours to get him into makeup and eventually I got it down to two hours with an assistant, and sometimes we did it even faster, which was amazing- probably on a day when we weren’t exhausted.

Robin, when he first looked at himself in the mirror absolutely love it, and it was really fun for him because we were shooting on the streets in San Francisco and I remember standing next to him on a corner and somebody walked up to him and they said, “Hey I heard Robin Williams is here today. Is he here?” And I’m looking around, I’m looking at Robin and I said, “Uh yeah, he’s somewhere- he’s somewhere around here.” And Robin just chuckled because nobody knew he was anything but an old lady.

 

dinnerpartydownload n.d. [online] Available from: http://www.dinnerpartydownload.org/makeup-artist-ve-neill/ [Accessed: May 9th 2015]

To create the "White Chicks," Cannom cast each actor's head in plaster, then used the cast to make a clay sculpture of their features. With a mold from the sculpture, he created overlapping foam prosthetic appliances. "You have to get their three-dimensional likeness," he says. "If it's not sculpted right, it shows. Then you still have to sculpt the new design on their faces. It has to fit them perfectly." The process is standard, yet making masculine faces look feminine is no easy task, Cannom says.

"I'm trying to add on a smaller, female face to a larger male face. You want it to all blend. Altering the top lip and the nose were the most important things to change. Male and female top lips are very different. For the face, I used silicone appliances with glue -- we have our own formula. I used foam latex, which has been around since 'The Wizard of Oz.' I started with the top lip, then the forehead went on, then a wrap piece under the lip and then the nose went on in the end."

Once the faces were in place, Cannom needed a convincing skin tone. "If you put a light pink makeup on dark skin it goes gray, so we used an orange-ish pax paint, which is an acrylic paint with acrylic adhesive mixed into it. It will completely cover the dark skin. The trouble is, if you paint it too thick, it starts to wrinkle like latex." The paint was followed by a thick coat of light makeup.

Of the two Wayanses, Marlon makes a better woman than Sean, Cannom says. "Marlon has the perfect face for it. He has a smaller jaw line. Sean has a huge, masculine jaw line."

A tight production schedule kept Cannom from creating multiple facial designs. "I did nine or 10 designs for Marlon. I wish I would have had six more weeks for Sean." But Cannom was pleased with the final product and noted the work of Glen Hanz, the main sculptor, who did the finish work on the faces. "Every pore is put on individually by hand with sculpting tools," Cannom explains. "Every little wrinkle is tedious, time-consuming work."

The actors spent five hours a day in the makeup trailer for 60 days -- three hours of makeup, 90 minutes of body painting and 30 minutes to perfect the eyes and wigs, Cannom says. "We did the makeup on them 50 or 60 times. They were great. It was tough."

The blue scleral contact lenses irritated the Wayanses, he says. "They had to wear them all day long. The contact lenses didn't exist 10 years ago, and now they have beautiful blue soft contact lenses that cover the whole eye. But even though it's comfortable, it's this big thing going in their eyes."

 

Jarvis, M. Made Pale by Comparison. Los Angeles Time.  2014. [online] Available from:  http://articles.latimes.com/2004/jul/11/entertainment/ca-jarvis11 [Accessed: May 10th 2015]

White Chicks

White Chicks Actors before and after n.d. [online] Available from: https://neianeia.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/marlon-and-shawn-wayans-amazing-makeup-in-white-chicks.jpg [Accessed: May 10th 2015]

I can see why PAX was used in these films. Firstly it works well with foam. Secondly, because they're both comedy films, perfect translucency doesn't really need to be achieved with the skin tones.

Makeup Artist Magazine. Issue 62. 2007. 

 

Images of 3D transfers being used for Pirates of the Carribbean.

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