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Character 2

 

I have decided that after my presentation tutorial, to take advice from my tutors and classmates and create a second character for my main deity to interact with. As the Fujin is going to be very prosthetic based, I need to keep this character relatively simple so that I don't take on too much work.

 

I have always been fascinated with geisha, and I think she'd be an appropriate character for the Fujin to interact with. This would also give me the opportunity to do complex hair work. 

 

Having decided to model my second character after some kind of Geisha/upper class Japanese girl, I now need to proceed with research for her design.

Memoirs of a Geisha

Of course, the most well-known film depicting Geishas. However, upon meeting a geisha myself in Kyoto, I was informed that the costumes, hair and makeup are rarely accurate in the film, as real geishas organise their wardrobes according to seasons, festivals etc. As I don't have time to go into such detail, and as it can clearly be forgone if such a prolofic film has done so, I will put together the best image that I can. I think considering the plot of my film clip, I will want the geisha to essentially look as grand as I can make her. I want her to be an offering to the Fujin, so she will have been made to look as beautiful as a geisha can. This idea came from my research whilst watching Clash of Titans, where Hades demanded that the princess be sacrificed to the Gods do that the Kraken wouldn't destroy Argos. The idea for sacrifice was also raised by my class mates during a feedback tutorial so that has also influenced my ideas. 

 

 

Real Geisha

 

Having been lucky enough to go to Japan and meet with a real geisha, I have primary source photos 

 

You can see here that the geisha wear a lot of makeup. They have dark red eyebrows which are quite short and straight. They have black eyeliner outlining their waterline and upper lash line, extending out slightly with a hint of red (or done entirely in red).. They have pale pink blush lightly covering most of their cheeks and full red lips - not underdrawn like a lot of images.

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I really love the scene in the film where the geisha does her performance as her 'coming out' ceremony. She looks beautiful and also bizarre and very extravagent which I think would be in-keeping for the style of film I want to produce.

 

These are all historical images of rich/upper-class/beautiful girls that I found while I was researching the Fujin. 

 

I like elements such as the hair design from these images, but maybe with more floral hair jewellery, more traditional of geishas to make the character look more extravagant. 

 

These girls also seem to have little makeup, whereas I would like to emulate full, traditional geisha makeup to make the character as impressive as possible as an offering to Fujin.

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I actually bought an authentic kimono whilst I was in Japan, so costuming for this character shouldn't prove too much of a problem. 

 

Initial thoughts for the hair, I think buying a black synthetic wig and re-fronting it to fit my model would be the best option, as I clearly don't have time to knot a whole wig. I will then set it with heated rollers (or possibly wet the wig and do a wet set depending on my research and the wig). I can then style and pin the wig in place and accesorize it. The makeup should be relatively simple, as I bought geisha makeup in Japan, I have the correct primer and foundation that geishas use. 

Geisha Hair Styling:

japaneseladysamuri (2011) Real Geisha Hair Tutorial [online] Available from:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blz2Zr01Hmg&spfreload=10 [Accessed: April 6th 2015]

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Real maiko have their own hair styled by trained geisha hairdressers for approximately 2 hours at a time and change it only every 2 weeks or so. They would also have wax combed into their hair to help maintain the rigid hairstyle.

 

After talking to a Maiko in Japan, it was explained to me that Maiko typically have more elborate hairstyles and accessories than fully-fledged Geisha, as its deemed Geisha are more wise and so they don't need so many things to help them get attention. Although I want my character to be a Geisha, I want her to look as extravangent as possible and I think within the context that I am designing for, an extravagent geisha will be an acceptable look.

This video showed a man styling a wig. I don't know what the wig was for (maybe a performance, as geishas use their own hair) or whether it was human hair or synthetic hair. He didn't seem to use many pins to secure the hair which is what i'm most worried about' how to secure the hair. As the hair has a seamless enveloping quality with no bumps, I need to find a way to create this look.

 

The geisha also seem to typically have quite small foreheads, so I think that when I am knotting in a new-hairline on the wig I buy, I shall bring it down quite low.

ayabaya (2009) Maiko or Geisha Painting Her Face - The Full Film. [online] Available from:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=490PfcB_ujM&spfreload=10 [Accessed: April 6th 2015]

Geiko/Maiko

 

I managed to find this extremely helpful video of the differences between Maiko (trainee geisha) and Geiko (geisha).

 

A maiko is between the age of 15-20 and then is a Geisha

 

A maiko’s hairstyle is made using only her own hair. She wears floral hair decorations that change every month. Young maikos have floral hair decorations. They only wear lipstick on the lower lip. This is to make her look young and pretty. When she becomes a second year maiko, the hair decoration is taken off and the lipstick is also worn on the top lip. Maiko’s sleeves are a lot longer than the geisha. She also has a jewelled band around her obi belt. 

 

Geisha wears a wig. Sleeves of the kimono are shorter, the obi belt is shorter. The overall look is simpler. As you can se there are also no hair jewels or accessories but some wooden looking combs, which look a lot like the historical images I found of wealthy women.

 

I assume this means that in the previous video I watched, the man was preparing a wig for a Geisha.

 

 

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Makeup

The video below illustrates all the physical differences between a Geisha a Maiko, although this video was entitled "Maiko or Geisha Painting her Face". Apparently having red eyebrows is a slightly more recent trend amoung the geisha community. 

 

Notes:

- Applied primer to face 

- Applied foundation with sponge to the back of the neck (leaving the unmarked area free from producy) and up to the jawline

- Then applied thick foundation with brush to face, leaving about 1cm between the hairline and skin. 

- Then worked over this with a sponge to smoothe out texture

- Then applied pink blush on a powder puff to lot of the face, mostly around the cheeks, but slightly around the eye area

- Then used red eyeshadow and applied it on a q-tip to the outer corners and under the eyes

- Lined top lash line with black liquid liner

- Painted lips red

 

Kyoto Fan (2013) Differences between a Geiko (Geisha) and a Maiko (with subtitles) 【HD】[online] Available:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJnXwyN4qPk&spfreload=10  [Accessed: April 6th 2015]

Geisha of Japan (2015) Hairstyles - Updated [online] Available from:http://geishaofjapan.com/fashion/hairstyles/ [Accessed: April 7th 2015]

Hairstyles and Inspiration for Designs

These are all exemplery hairstyles of Maikos, so I should avoid styling my wig to look too much like these:

I managed to find a behind the scenes video where the wigs and makeup were briefly discussed. The designers talked a lot about each makeup and kimono and wig was designed specifically around the characters personality. For example, a more rebellious character was given a few loose tendrils in her geisha wig which would have never happened in real life. Also how they used a lot of colour to represent the characters, like how a more pastel palette was used in a more mature character's kimino's. 

 

They also didn't make the geisha as white as they would've been in reality,as the director wanted a more relateable, different take on the makeup. I think I will try for the optimum white effect, as I want the look to be very dramatic.

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They also mentioned about the wax used in the hair, and it looked like a blue bar of soap. I'm not sure what kind of similar product I could try, as mens hair wax is often quite mattifying and geisha hair is always so shiny. I think using hair spray and straighteners will work quite well (as is demonstrated in the video below).

The back of a geisha's neck is the most skin she shows and is meant to be a very sexy part of their body. The makeup in that area is meant to make people imagine what's underneath all their layers. 

 

There are two different styles of painting the back of the neck. The traditional 2-pronged pattern is for everyday dress and 

clients, whereas the three-pronged makeup is worn for festivals and special occaisions. I think the three-pronged makeup would definately be more appropriate for my design, as the character is being sent as a special offering.

uniwigs (2012) Elaborate Geisha Hairstyles [[online] Available from:http://blog.uniwigs.com/elaborate-geisha-hairstyles.html [Accessed: Aprrl 7th 2015]

wordpress (2015) Geisha Hairstyle [online] Available from:https://kojikisankyoto.wordpress.com/2012/10/30/geisha-hairstyle/ [Accessed: April 7th 2015]

This other video gave me more of an idea how to section the hair into 5 sections and how to join the sections to one another.  It also explained that the hair isn't pinned at all, but tied with the special japanese string made from paper. I don't know what I shall use as I can't find it online, but maybe something like hair bands or elasticated string....

 

 

Hairstyler (2007) Geisha Hair Stylist [online] Available from:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_61hv7tPU4&spfreload=10 [Accessed: April 7th 2015]

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zaicushastyj (2010) Making "wareshinobu" maiko-hairstyle [online] Available from:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7z7wdbIL03s&spfreload=10 [Accessed: April 8th 2015] 

 

 

This is by far the most helpful video i've seen. I could see how the man sectioned the hair and how he tied together secions. 

 

it also showed how to created the shapes at the side, where he inserted a wire loop and then pushed a kind of hair doughnut into the space in the hair. 

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Historic Geishas

Another approach I could take would to create a more historic looking geisha based around how geisha looked in the 18th/19th century. I could either interpret a modern day style-geisha or go for a more old-style looking geisha, which I think could look effective depending on the design I decide on for the Fujin.

 MD Stanley B. Burns, Elizabeth A. Burns  (2006) Geisha: A Photographic History, 1872-1912 Hardcover Uknown: Power house books

S. Matsubara (uknown) Makiami-Koyu. [online] Available from:http://www.19thcenturyphotos.com/Geisha-122212.htm  [Accessed: April 8th 2015]

19th Century geisha (uknown) uknown. [online] Available from:https://www.pinterest.com/pin/527765650055177282/ [accessed: April 8th 2015]

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LIT esperan (2014) Geisha and Maiko in Kimono 芸者と舞妓 in the 19th and early 20th century [online] Available from:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XowPLFBDEJ8&spfreload=10 [Accessed: April 8th 2015]

 

In a lot of the images i've found of 18th/19th century geisha, they seem to be wearing a lot less makeup. I feel like the foundation wasn't as white as it is currently (maybe due to progressions with technology) and they definately don't have red eyebrows. They also seem to have very little liner around the eye. 

 

The hair also seems tobe different and quite varient. Some styles have short chopped sections at the front. Others seem to be like an early 20th century pompadour with a bun at the crown of the head. 

 

 

Further Geisha Research

Gallagher, J and Reynolds, W. (2003) Geisha: A unique world of tradition, elegance and art. New York: Distributed in US & Canada by Sterling Pub. Co. 

Memoirs of a Geisha. 2005 [DVD] Rob Marshall. USA: Dolby Digital

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The less decorated, the more senoir a geisha is. Eventually she will only wear the wig and makeup occaisionally even though she is still geisha.

 

These pictures have provided me with really good authentic reference that will influence my design process. 

 

 

The History Of Geisha

 

In the 8th century, Heain Kyoto was an area of refined cultural hedonism. Etertainers/serving girls were present just before this time,  having been enstranged from their families. 

 The first indication of an emergant female entertainer was Izumi no Okuni in 1603, who was a dancer and a prostitute. Her erotic and sacred dance/dramas (often performed in male drag were the first ever

kabuki shows recorded. Just like in Restoration London, the actresses were for sale. In 1629 the government banned women from the stage and adolescant boys took on the female roles. The boys were for sale just as much as the girls, and there was bo taboo on homosexuality. 

 

The birthing period of the geisha was from 1750-1820. 

Unlicensed prostitution was rife outside of the walled pleasure gardens of Japan. Among the many types of covert prostitutes were the sancha-joro, who worked illegally in public bath houses. From the 1680's onward, there were also yound women called 'odiriko', meaning dancing girls. These girls were not originally prostitutes, but had been taught skills like dancing by their families, who hoped to marry them off as concubines to wealthy families. However, as time went on, they found they had to start relying on prostitution more and more. In the early 1700's, many odoriko were rounded up with illegal prostitutes and moved to the red light district of Japan They continued to practise their arts even though the law forced them to work as licenced prostitutes. They called themselves gei-ko, "arts-child". This led to the birth of geisha as s formal profession.

The first woman to call herself geisha was Kiku, who announced her profession in 1750/1. There aren't records of her, as people of her class were thought not worth to keep a record of. Her artistic skills were so developed and in demand, that she decided she could make a living from performance alone. 

By the eighteenth-century, all the elements of geisha arts were in place, including a sophisticated public who were willing to patronize the new profession. The trend quickly spread throughout Japan.

Gunji, M. (1985) Kabuki  New York: Distributed in the United States by Kodansha International/USA, through Harper and Row

I thought taking a brief look at kabuki in general might influence my direction, in terms of makeup, but more likely how I want to present my piece as a performance. Kabuki is a type of performing unique to Japan, and also originated as a dancy style, so I might be able to link it in with my dance music video research.

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I think because kabuki is so bizarre and stylized that it can't be explained with words so I watched a clip of a dance. I think I want my piece to be more elegant and flowing, and I find kabuki to be slightly too disjointed and static for my style of piece. 

 

Ibqopdul 2011  Kabuki Dance- Bando Tamasaburo. Yamanba [online] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JjLuh4Ns7s [Accessed: May 10th 2015]

 

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