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My Face Cast

Face Casting

Face casting is the first step to producing a positive replica of your models face. The face casting, which is usually done with silicone or alginate, produces a negative of the person's face, which is then normally filled with plaster. It can then be sculpted on to produce prosthetics. 

Silicone

is obviously more expensive, but can take a more accurate impression and pick up more detailing. This is because the silicone 'grabs' the skin a lot more, which can be counterracted by adding a rich moisturising cream all over the skin and bald cap. Just as with alginate, scim can be added to the silicone before it sets to add strength and aid adhesion to the plaster bandages.  Because the aplication of silicone is thinner than alginate, there is less cushioning between the model's skin and the plaster bandage casing. Therefore extra care must be taken when removing the cast to ensure the model's skin is not bruised. Another advantage is that it you can reuse a silicone mould repeatedly and it will not shrink or distort over time. You can also make an immediate fibre glass positive to sculpt on which you can't do with alginate. Silicone also has less lumps. 

Alginate

is a powder derived from seaweed that becomes a paste when mixed with water. It is also used by dentists for taking teeth impressions. It is temperature sensitive, meaning the temperature of the water will determine how fast the alginate sets. The consistnecy of the paste depends on how much water is added to the powder. Many types of alginate are available. Several manufacturers make 'prosthetic garde alginates' that provide a good working times even when used with tepid water, which is more pleasant for the model. 

Plaster bandages

As alginate is flexible, you will need to reinforce it with plaster bandages to provide support. Plaster bandages are rolls of gauze saturated with 'plaster of Paris', which are dipped in warm water, squeezed out and applied to the alginate, setting hard in about 10 minutes. 

Scrim (burlap)

A light, open texture material usually made of cotton or flax, scrim is used to add strength to and reinforce the mould to prevent rcracks from appearing. The scrim is cut into small squares, (depending on the mould). 

Low-expansion plaster

As they set, all plasters expand to some degree. However, a low-expansion plaster is best as it expands less, and is unlikely to crack. 

 

 

 

The Process

- Always have atleast 2 people working on a life cast so someone can keep an eye on the model's nose for breathing.

- Cover any hair with vaseline. If you are doing a full head cast, a bald cap will need to be applied to the model ( a cheap latex one will suffice. Once it is fitted, take a water-soluble pen and draw in the models hairline. This will trasfer onto the alginate, which can act as a helpful guide when sculpting. Cover any eyebrows and eyelashes and use a thick layer if covering any facial hair.

- Prepare the alginate for use; two cups of alginate and two cups of cold water. When you are ready, mix and start working immediately. Alginate doesn't stick to dry alginate, so when the mixture dries up then you can no longer apply the mix.

- Start application to the forehead. Constantly talk to your model, telling them what is happening, where you are putting the alginate, are they ok, etc. Push the alginate up into the inner corners of the eyes and over the eyelids. This is one area reffered to as an undercut, which can be prone to trapping air bubbles. 

- Keep a good thickness - anything less than 1cm is too thin. 

- Cover the whole face, leaving the nose until last. Use a spatula to work around the nostrils. 

- Once the face is covered can be pressed into the wet alginate on the forehead and chin areas. This will ensure the plaster bandages adhere to the alginate and do not seperate from it when removed from the model. 

- The plaster bandage is then applied to the alginate. This is used as alginate is too floppy to make a mould from. Its needs to overlap in order to stick to itself. One long piece should be applied around the outside for support. The nose is left so that it can be bandaged later, otherwise it can be distorted. This sets within about 10 minutes.

- When set, ask the model to hold the front sides of the mould, lean their head forwards and wiggle their face so the mould slowly eases away from their skin. 

-When the cast has been removed it should be positioned in a bowl so that the nose is not leaning against anything. Plaster can then be applied over the nose and damp couchroll should be laid over the mould and put up the nostrils of the mould to stop it drying out or distorting.

- The mould is then ready to be filled with plaster or other medium

 

 

Conway, J. (2004) Makeup Artistry for Professional Qualifications. Essex: Heinemann. pages 358 - 362

 

 

For a full head cast: Complete the front half of the cast, making sure you go back no further than the ears and top of the head. Wait for this to set and then apply a generous amount of petroleum jelly over the back edge of the plaster bandages. This is where the back half will overlap the front, allowing the casing to seperated at removal. Apply the back half just like the front, overlapping the fron half of the casing where the petroleum jelly was applied. 

- Allow the plaster to completely set (10 minutes). 

- Draw a guideline accross the two halves of the cast, to assist you when fitting them back toegther again.

- Lift off the back half of the plaster bandage casing and set it to one side. A slit now needs to be made in the back of the alginate mould so that it can be removed.

- Take a blunt knife in your working hand and slide your other hand between the alginate and your model's head. Continue to slice the mould in a single cut towards the top of the head, working the back section loose as you go. 

- Next ask the model to hold the front of the cast and bend forward. Ask the model to wrinkle up their face  and work the mould off their head, taking care to keep the alginate in place within the front plaster bandage casing. 

- Once the mould is clear, the back of the plaster casing can be refitted over the alginate. 

- Carefully adjust the alginate from the inside with your hand so that the cut is closed back together again. You should be able to see the transferred marker pen line outlining the natural hairline. Retrace the line to ensure it will be transferred onto the plaster cast during the next stage of the process. 

- The two halves of the mould should now be secured together by wrapping more plaster bandages or duct tape around the neck area.

- Place moistened tissues inside the mould until you're ready to cast it. 

 

Conway, J. (2004) Makeup Artistry for Professional Qualifications. Essex: Heinemann. pages 361, 362

I watched a video of Stuart Bray doing a face cast and some of his methods are quite difficult to the traditional practise. Some of the things I took away from the video are:

- Clingfilm can be used instead of a bald cap or nothing

- Can use Nivea to cover brows/hairs as the vaseline doesn't give the alginate as much gripping potential, so Nivea will give a more accurate cast

- Can start with the nose first when applying alginate and plaster bandages

- You can use alginate to fill in the nostrils instead of tissue. You push it in from outside the mould and quickly wipe away excess, which seems neater to me than using tissue. 

- Scraping out some plaster when filling the mould can reduce the weight of it and make it more practical to carry.

 

I found this process quite simple overall. Working quickly and effectively, while keeping the model safe was quite challengine at times. It can be easy to forget that you're working on a person, and you need to prioritise their comfort and safety above all else. When the alginate is drying up it can make you panic, and feel the need to rush which can make you hasty and careless. Maybe using a grade of alginate with a longer working time would help counterract this. Because we didn't use burlap, I found the plaster came away from the alginate which worried me. I'd rather it was secured to the alginate, as I feel that then the alginate would have less chance of distorting. I think the mould I did came out really well, as there are very few air bubbles, especially around the undercut areas and the rest of the mould seems to be really smooth. I also think I worked around the nose area quite well, considering it can be quite difficult.

KlairedelysArt (2012) How to: Take a Face Cast [online] available from:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NyF5bKlkT0 [Accessed: November 4th 2014] 

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