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Factors influecing makeup for black skin tones:

  • Prone to areas of hyper pigmentation

  • Prone to a shiny surface

  • Reflects light differently from lighter skin tones

  • Contains more sewat glands

  • Contains more sebaceous glands

 

FOUNDATION

 

  • A mattifying pre-base can prove useful in removing excess shine from the skin. An orange toned pre-base used sparingly can 'lift' and brighten the complexion.

  • Consider using brands that specialise in colours for black skins. Avoid colours with pink undertones.

  • If you are doing a photoshoot with a black model, contact her before the session and ask her to bring her own foundation along. Most black models are experts at selecting their own makeup shades. 

  • The 'two in one' powder and foundation compacts work well on dark skin tones.

 

CONCEALING

 

  • Orange is an excellent corrective colour for lightening smaller areas of hyper pigmentation

 

CONTOURING

 

  • Black models and clients will often request specific contouring techniques to be carried out for photographic work. This may include slimming a broad nose or reducing full lips. However, for fashion work, the model will have been chosen for his or her specific look, so this specific contouring is geerally not required. 

 

POWDER

 

  • Avoid translucent powders containing titanium oxide, as this can make the model looke 'grey'. Instead, choose a dark yellow or orange powder. 

 

COLOUR PRODUCTS

 

  • For a natural look, black skin suits warm-toned colours rangeing from peach to reds, burgandy, bronze and browns. The darker the skin tones, the deeper the shades should be.

  • Alternatively, bright colours such as lime greens, shocking pinks and electric blues on the eyes can look fantastic for high fashion effects. 

  • Sheer and iridescent finishes particularly suit black skin tones as they enhance the natural luminosity of the skin.

  • Deep berry shades such as plums look great on lips.

 

Delamar, P. (2003) The Complete Makeup Artist, 2nd Edition. London: Melody Dawes.

Beyonce. (2007) [online image] Available from: http://makeupforlife.net/2007/05/prom.html [Accessed: October 18th 2014]

Makeup for Black Skin Tones

Nicki Minaj Makeup. (2014) [online image] available from: http://www.dressspy.com/news/the-best-nicki-minaj-make-up-tutorials [accessed: October 18th 2014]

These photos are of some of the products used to create the makeup on the left. This talk was about how to cater and work with black skin tones, what colours and products work best for black skin and how to apply them correctly. 

 

Key Points:

 

  • Products with SPF can reflect back and look ashy

  • If using MAC foundations, use NC, as black skin tones are naturally warm

  • Think of the skin as water; if its too cool you need to warm it up, if its too warm, cool it down

  • Foundation is not necessarily needed everywhere

  • Use a golden/yellow toned highlighter

  • Let the foundation sit on the skin so it will oxidise. If in doubt with regards to the foundation, go a shade lighter, as the oxidisation will darken it

  • Avoid pastel shades. If  in doubt, swatch colours on the back of the model's hand to see if it compliments their skin tone

  • Contour colour is red-toned which contrasts with yellow base

  • The pigment was pressed into the centre of the lid and black was added to the outer corners

  • The straight lines were achieved with some makeup remover on a cotton bud. The line from the eyeshadow lined up with the end of the eyebrow

  • Banana powder (Buff or Rose Petal, pictured above) works best for black skin, as translucent powder has titanium oxide which will make the skin look grey.

  • No cool-toned blushes. Warm peaches, browns or burgandies, like the shades pictured above

  • Gel liner for brows and go around with concealor

  • Matte bronzer

  • Skin finished and minerlize bronzers for highlighting

  • For nose contouring, start under the front of the brow go down, round and under the tip

  • For lips, a pinky brown lip pencil and lip gloss. Other shades that work well on black skin tones are also pictured above.

Makeup Talk and Demonstration

Jenna Ushkowitz. (2014) [online image] available from:http://assets-s3.usmagazine.com/uploads/assets/photo_galleries/regular_galleries/1495-awards-season-2012-stars-red-carpet-beauty-prep/photos/1326136091_jenna-ushkowitz-560.jpg [Accessed: October 21st 2014]

Lucy Liu (2014) [online image] Available from:http://images.totalbeauty.com/content/photos/asian-eye-makeup-06.jpg [Accessed: October 21st 2014]

FOUNDATION AND POWDER

 

  • A lilac-coloured pre-base can be used to reduce extremely sallow complexions

  • Always use yellow toned foundations and powders. Bases with pink undertones will look completely unnatural

 

CONTOURING

 

  • Oriental models often have a round face shape, and their features may appear flat on camera. Therefore contouring techniques for this face shape can be employed. The eye shaoe can either be emphasised or contoured to give the impression of a socket line, depending on the design requirements.

 

BLUSHER

 

  • Soft colours with red or pink undertones will 'lift' a sallow skin tone

  • For added definition, apply blush high along the cheekbone, not on the 'apples' of the cheeks, as this will make the face appear rounder.

 

EYES

 

  • Eyelashed that are straight and short can be curled with an eyelash curler. Sparse lashes will benefit from black mascara.

  • Eyebrows tend to be straight and short in length. Shaping them with tweezers and extending them with shadow or pencil can define them.

 

LIPS

 

  • Shades from sheer pinks to deep berry colours with brown or red undertones look great

 

Delamar, P. (2003) The Complete Makeup Artist, 2nd Edition. London: Melody Dawes.

 

 

Factors influencing makeup for Oriental Asian skin tones:

  • Tend to be prone to sensitivity

  • Always has yellow undertones

  • The eye does not have a socket line/second eyelid

 

Makeup for Asian Skin Tones

Nicole Scherzinger. (2012) [online image] Available from:http://cdnpix.com/show/8936899230068920_FLylT6To_c.jpg [Accessed: October 21st 2014]

Freida Pinto. (2009) [online image] Available from:http://www.loreal-paris.co.uk/_en/_gb/caps/Cap_111207_Spokes/img/main/Freida-Pinto-visual-01.jpg [Accessed: October 21st 2014]

Makeup for Indian Asian Skin Tones

FOUNDATION AND POWDER

 

  • Once again, this type of skin tone will have warm, yellow undertones.

  • Dark circles under the eyes are common amoungst Indian Asians. Orange is an excellent corrective colour for lightening dark pigmentation patches. For lighter skin tones, mix with the skin-toned concealer.

  • Yellow-toned powder is again the preferable option; (Kim Kardashian is known for using Ben Nye's Banana Powder) darker skin tones should opt for orange tones.

 

BLUSHER

 

  • Almond and warm coffee tones will colour the face without making it look too dark. Deeper brown based shades with red, plum and soft berry undertones will also work well, particularly on darker skin tones.

 

EYES

 

  • Heavy eyebrows can be shaped with tweezers to open the eye area.

  • All the natural tones within the warm spectrum - shades of brown, gold, bronzes, etc - will look good. For a more dramatic effect, shades such as burgandy, black, silvers, deep blues, etc. will work well. In general, warmer, darker or brighter colours will work better than pastels.

  • Black and dark brown mascara will define the eyes

  • Using kohl eyeliner can create dramatic effects.

 

LIPS

 

  • Shades of brown give a natural finish. Deeper berry shades are great for a more dramatic effect

 

Delamar, P. (2003) The Complete Makeup Artist, 2nd Edition. London: Melody Dawes.

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