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Factors influencing makeup for mature skin:

  • Loss of natural colour on the lips, face and hair

  • Sagging contours

  • Prone to hyper-pigmentation

  • Drier skin type

  • Wrinkles

FOUNDATION AND POWDER

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  • When applying makeup to mature skin it is important to be very gent;e and avoid dragging the skin tissue

  • Using a pre-base product can often temporarily reduce eye bags or temporarily lift and lighten the skin. One such product is Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, which can temporarily tighten the skin's contours and smooth the skin if applied before foundation.

  • Hyper-pigmentation can be concealed with concealer one to two shades lighter than the skin tone

  • Use a cream foundation that will help to nourish a drier skin type

  • Ensure the foundation does not settle in lines and wrinkles by blending carefully and using a tapping motion over the surface.

  • Keep the base matte; shimmery products can accentuate skin imperfections.

  • Make sure your face powder is matt, silky, fine and light. Product technology is developing all the time.

  • Apply the lightest dusting of powder on the centre of the face_not around the eyes, where lines are all too easily amphasised)

 

CONTOURING

 

  • Sagging jaw lines, double chins and hooded eyes can be reduced with the use of contouring makeup.

 

BLUSHER

 

  • Cream blushers work well on dry, mature skin types. Apply cream blush over foundation and then lightly dust on face powder. A touch of powder blush can be applied on top for added definition.

  • Generally,more natural colours such as peaches, corals and soft pinks are an excellent choice.

 

EYES

 

  • Grey eyebrows can be strengthened using pencil or powder in slate or taupe. Eyebrow tinting could be offered as a more permanent option.

  • Matte finishes are more flattering than shimmer, which can accentuate the crepey skin texture of mature eyes.

  • Subtle colours work best, but the eyes will benefit from some definition. Shades of brown (avoid red undertones), grey, khaki, soft pinks, mauves and peaches are a good choice.

  • Do not over-highlight the brow bone as this can accentuate a 'hooded' eye shape.

  • When applying eye makeup you may need to lift the brown to remove creases from the eyelids to ensure an even application of shadow and eyeliner. Use multi-directional brush strokes to ensure all the tiny creases are filled with colour.

  • Eyeliner is useful for defining the eyes, but make sure the effect is soft and smokey rather than hard and harsh.

  • Define sparse eyelashes with dark brown or charcoal rather than black mascara, which can look too harsh. White or grey eyelashes often benefit from eyelash tinting.

 

LIPS

 

  • To avoid feathering, line the mouth with a lip pencil and apply foundation and powder over the outer lip area.

  • Soft, slightly glossy colours for lips look best in natural tones.

  • A strong red lipstick with white or grey hair pulled back from the face can look very classy, but it does not suit everyone and requires strong bone structure to carry it off.

 

Delamar, P (2003). The Complete Makeup Artist, 2nd Edition. London: Melody Dawes

All Ages; Makeup for Mature Skin

Meryl Streep. (2014) [online image] Available from:http://wallruru.com/meryl-streep-49-105939-backgrounds.html [Accessed: October 25th 2014]

Helen Mirren. (2014) [online image] Available from:http://img-ak.verticalresponse.com/media/f/1/8/f18c5a8e68/bd2dc78290/4979c792f6/library/Helen-Mirren_l.jpg?__nocache__=1 [Accesses: 25th October 2014]

I think these two images are both excellent examples of opposing makeups. The image on the left is a very well done old-age makeup. The dusky pink tones are appropriate, and suit her skin tone. The eyeliner and lips are quite bold and defined which actually make her appear younger. The eye makeup is light and subtle and the skin doesn't have much evidence of contouring, but looks very lifted and light. On the right however, is an example of badly done makeup that is inappropriate in both age and colour for Meryl Streep. The contouring around the cheeks and forehead don't really help life the face in any way. The red colours around the eyes are very unflattering; as people age, the waterline tends to look pinker, and this step would be carried out in an ageing makeup, therefore doing it as a beauty makeup on an old person in nonsensical. Paired with the black eyeliner, the eye makeup is overall missguided and far too harsh for her face. The lip colour is too bold, brassy and looks messy and sadly only emphasises the eye colour.

Meryl Streep (2014) [online image] Available from:http://img2.timeinc.net/instyle/images/2011/transformation/020712-2012-meryl-streep-400.jpg [Accessed: October 25th 2014] 

Carmen Dell (2014) [online image] Available from:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_P4WDBG3WZi8/TQy99u9uKfI/AAAAAAAABFE/jW137XS0ckw/s400/7550180_carmen20dell20orefece.jpg [Accessed 25th October 2014]

Makeup for Mature Skin; Demo

Tips and Tricks (handout sheet)

 

Preparation

 

  • Hydrate and nourish

  • Primers and beauty balms

  • Opt for matte or natural texture

  • Strategically place powdder and avoid eye are

 

Brows

 

  • Define brows in a classic beauty shape which will lift and create more space

  • Alternate between a lighter and dark colour, dependant upon hair placement

  • Brows are important to reshape the eye; use lighter pencil strokes so it appears natural and not too dark

 

 Eye Shadows

 

  • Use satin or matte textures. Use a complimentary colour across the lid, and then blend in a darker shade

  • Sweep product under the eye and blend halfway intot he socket line

  • Blend and use a matte highlighter in a neutral tone (slightly lighter)

 

Liner and Lashes

 

  • Lining the eyes adds definition and length to the lash

  • White or nude pencil can be applied inside the eye to brighten

  • Apply mascara - ensure to curl the lashes; corner lashes are great on a mature model to lift the eyes

  • Refresh under the eye with eye cream and a dusting of concealor

  • Feathering product will give a natural finish

 

Contour. Blusher. Highlight

 

  • Choose matte tones to contour, but be selective and consider face shape

  • Cream blushers are amazing to apply onto the apples of the cheeks to give a plump effect

  • Cream highlighters add radiance and a glo to mature skin

  • Avoid any texture theat contains too much sparkle or large sized pigment

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lips

 

  • Define the lips with soft nude lip liner

  • Choose warm colours on the lips; coppers, corals, plums terracottas and reds

  • Stay away from nude tones; if required, use something with a dusky pink/brown undertone

 

IMPORTANT

 

  • Use minimal product for maximum impact

  • Hydration products are key

  • Skincare is essential

  • Finely milled products give a smoothing illusion

  • Placement will make the difference

  • Communicate with model

 

 

Notes from demo;

 

  • Start with a lightweight cleanser, followed by a lightweight moisturiser. Both applied with a duo fibre brush (gets into all the lines. White fibres spread and place, black fibres buff and blend.)

  • Follow with a golden radient primer

  • Mix tinted moisturiser with a small amount of foundation to central face

  • Added NW40 studio fix to the outer perimeter of the fac

  • Buff toegther with a buffing brush to make it really natural

  • Matte e/s. 2 colours. Lots or mascara and a gentle, dark brown liner.

  • Creamy concealer under the eyes which won't dry or look powdery.

  • Coloured brow gel

  • No contouring (you don't want to make the fce look holow) - try instead to make it look radiant with bronzer (pressed, so less product is picked up and used)

  • High shine blush for plump looking cheeks and cream highlighters

  • Highlights and shimmers (mineralize highlighter) around the temples, cupids bow and down the nose

  • Add gloss to the centre of the lips to make them look plump

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