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Important traits to have as a fashion/editorial makeup artist:

- A professional attitude

- To know your role, i.e. when to step in, when to ask questions, etc

- If you're assisting, do what the person tells you, don't be overexited or ask too many questions

- To know how long a look is going to take and tell the director/photographer how much time you're going to need

- If its 3 or more looks, get an assistant

- Arrive 15 minutes early; arriving on time is considered later, as setting up takes time. 

- Always ask the artist what they like and what they want and try and make it fit to the brief. 

 

In fashion editorial makeup you do hair or the makeup, but never both. Whereas in TV you would be required to do both. 

In a fashion show the models come in and the head mua/designer will do the look once for everyone to see. The makeup artists then repeat this on the all the other models who are then lined up and checked for hair and makeup and altered if necessary. 

Even for a highly paid job, don't overcompensate in your role. Sometimes all thats needed is sometinted moisturizer and touch ups and possibly some body contouring (e.g. for a male sports campaign). Doing too much can ruin a shoot. 

There is a lot of available work for catalogues, like Very and Missguided. They require very on-trend but beautiful looks and that you do both hair and makeup. 

Any work with children is basically just hair and possibly some blusher.

 

In TV work, 4 pictures are always taken for continuity; front, back and sides and any nail work. 

 

Definitions

 

Editorial: High end, printed in magazines such as Harper's Bazaar. Must be beautiful and saleable

 

Fashion Editorial: Is telling a story, has a big budget and can be high end and fantastical. These are not commercially driven and so are more creative, like Nova, i-D and Purple. 

 

Commercial: Is all about selling the product and making the model look great, typically young and street style. Is usually more about the clothes.

 

 

For fashion editorial, it is important to be aware of the difference between fashion cultures, for example, how Italian Vogue looks differ from Japanese Vogue.

 

EDITORIAL HAIR: 

 

-Hair can be different, beautiful and inspiring.

- Hair by magazines like i-D, Purple, Wonderland and Nova inspire and trendset youth culture.

- Period hairstyles are typically quite ageing. The closed the hair is to the face , the tighter the style.

- Hair can be a total mess at the back; the back is never photographed.

- Avante garde hair is more extreme and less saleable. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the editorial hair and makeup that was demonstrated to us by Jenny Dayton.

 

 

 

Vogue Italia. Issues 646 0ctober 2013 and 647 November 2013

Italia Vogue Beauty, Issue 647, November 2013

Vogue Japan, Issue 180, Auguest 2014. Casual Cool

Wonderland Beauty. Summer, 2013. 

Dazed and Confused. January 2012, February 2012. 

In these examples of various fashion magazines, you can see the clear differences in makeup and hair styles depending on the publication. 

Th Italian Vogue is quite classically glamorous, and aims to make it's models look good , if sometimes a little quirky, with exaggerated winger eyeliner, gold smokey eyes and red lips. Hair is often bouffant in style, or in sexy waves.

Japanese Vogue is very streamlined, with heavy eyeliner looks and some grungey makeups as well. Hair is typically slicked back or in a ponytail.

Wonderland uses exaggerated makeup, bright colours and doesn't necessaily worry about making the model look conventionally beautiful, but makes a statetment, creating striking images.

Dazed and Confused is perhaps the most bizarrre. Some of the images don't use maeup, but objects like jewellery glued to the face to create some kind of facial decoration. They are definately not concerned about creating a conventionally beautiful image, and play with gender, colours and boundaries.

My original design idea was to do a fairytale themed idea using Jack and the Beanstalk. I would use henna on the arm and bring it up onto the face to create a beanstalk, and then draw the people climbing up it to the model's eye, creating sky-like makeup around the eyes. 

I really liked my concept but I only had 15 minutes to do it in, but I think if i'd've had longer it wouldn't really have helped. Sometimes ideas don't work well in practise, so I decided to change my idea completely.

 

I decided to create a sepia sugar skull/witch doctor inspired design. I wanted it to be pretty, but extreme, like I was designing for Wonderland. I kept the hair classically beautiful, with 3 big curls making an almost bouffant hairstyle. I also added 2 fishtail braids either side of the face, like something a witch doctor would have hanging by their face.

I used black and white eyeliner to create the henna-like patterns, and found that the white added a pretty, feminine element.

Creating a fashion editorial makeup

We we asked to design a hair and makeup look inspired by henna and mehndi design. 

Alex Box. Fashion Editorial Makeup. (unknown) [online] Available from:https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/9f/b1/9e/9fb19e0894e2d303c3a985f509d61bf9.jpg  [Accessed: Janurary 18th 2015]

Alex Box. Fashion Editorial Makeup. (unknown) [online] Available from:http://www.pinterest.com/pin/562738915908547843/[Accessed: Janurary 18th 2015]

Vogue Italia. Issue 646 0ctober 2013 

Guido Palau Hair for Jean Paul Gaultier AW 14. (2014) [online image] Available from:https://www.facebook.com/GuidoPalau/photos/pb.182036491838174.-2207520000.1422116361./665880346787117/?type=3&theater [Accessed: January 24th 2015]

Guido Palau Hair for Marc Jacobs AW14. (2014) [online image] Available from:https://www.facebook.com/GuidoPalau/photos/pb.182036491838174.-2207520000.1422116361./665880273453791/?type=3&theater [Accessed: January 24th 2015]

Guido Palau

 

Guido is a British born hairstylist who's career skyrocketed after styling a number of supermodels for George Michael's Freedom! '90 music video, inclusing Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell. He was a major influence on the grunge scene in the 90's, and after Calvin Klein saw images of his work in 'The Face' magazine, he drafted him in bringing him global success and regognition. 

 

 

These were some images I found online and from magazines that I thought contained an element on henna in their design. 

The Alex Box makeup's show how illustrative patterns can be incorporated into a makeup while the Vogue Italia images show how metallic tattoo designs can be a makeup feature.

My Makeup

I really like my finished makeup. I think the hair is a modern take on classic beauty by adding the fishtail braids. I like how the highlights I added bring out her skull shape, like I planned. I think the look overall has continuity which I think is important and I also could see something similar in an editorial magazine.

Fashion Editorial Makeup

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